Kupujem prvu lulu, na što trebam paziti?

Odabir oblika lule i njegovog finiša je stvar osobnog izbora tako da to ostaje na vama.
Prvo kupiti solidnu lulu (marke navedene na topicu " Kupujem lulu, ne zelim potrosit puno love " ) i dobro je pogledati prije kupnje.
Druga stvar je da vam treba minimalno dvije lule jer se lula mora hladiti minj. 8 sati (mada je preporucljivo da se puši samo jednom u danu).
Treca stvar je kupiti lulu sa filterom, po mogucnosti 9mm izmijenjivim , ima ih i sa 6mm (Savinelli i talijaniski proizvođaci, mada ima Savinellia i sa 9mm) ali 9mm filtera ima kupiti kod nas na dosta mjesta dok 6mm nisam vidio. Lule bez filtera su za iskusnije pusace. Filter sluzi da hladi dim i puno manje pece jezik sa njim.
Četvrto pazite na veličinu lule, koliko dugo cete pušiti lulu ovisi i o njenoj velicini.
Peto usporedite cijene neke lule koju ste vidjeli u ducanu sa cjienama vani, vecinom se internetshoping isplati.

Stvari koje vam jos trebaju :

1. Duhan - pogledajte na našim linkovima recenzije ili naše recenzije duhana prije kupnje
2. Pribor za ciscenje - ima jeftini džepni setić za kupiti , negdje ga cak poklanjaju uz duhan ( Havana shop u Frankopanskoj recimo)
3.Pamucni stapici za ciscenje - cijena cca 9 kuna, e toga vam treba puno da propisno ocistite lulu

Prva lula bi u principu trebala biti klasična ravna billard lula. Ovisno o tome tko koliko puši, možda nije loše sa početak kupiti dvije lule, dok se jedna puši, druga se odmara. Lula ne bi smjela biti neki jeftilen, ali ne treba baciti niti hrpu love na prvu lulu. Dakle, ako je lula nova, treba je polako upušiti, ne natrpati recimo "Clan" u lulu i dimiti kao lokomotiva.

Sad, što se filtera tiče, prva stvar koju napravim kad nabavim lulu je da filter bacim. No to je stvar ukusa, no činjenica je da se filter brzo ovlaži i ako se ne mijenja redovito, zagadi lulu neopisivo. Imao sam prilike to vidjeti (i onjušiti - ne na mojoj luli).

Stvar je u tome da ako se lula pravilno napuni (3 x 3) i lagano puši, smatram da nikakvi filteri nisu potrebni.

Moje prve dvije lule su bile Savinellice Silver, koje sam kupio u Milanu davne 1980. godine, baš u Savinellijevom dučanu. Stajale su u jednoj košari pored ulaznih vrata i prodavale se za bagatelu, (nekih 20,000 lira tada) budući da nisu prošle posljednju provjeru - imale su navodno neku sitnu falingu koju do danas nisam otkrio - naime i danas su žive. Jedna je bila ravna, a druga bentica 606 extra. Slušao sam starije i pametnije, pravilno ih upušio, i eto još su žive i zdrave.

Lulu inače nakon pušenja treba ostaviti barem sat vremena da se ohladi, nakon toga je rastaviti i pustiti da se osuši nekih dva sata (ja ih ostavljam da se rastavljene suše preko noći), nakon toga ih očistiti pamučnim štapićima - i ne štediti na njima, a po potrebi se još mogu za komoru u glavi lule (pogotovo kod Peterson system) koristiti i vateni štapići za bebe.

Nakon toga lulu sastaviš i spremna je za novu uživanciju.

Pa filteri se i ovak mjenjaju nakon svakog pusenja, ali ako ti je lula predvidjena za 9 mm filtere, a ne koristiš ij onda mi nekak ima prevelku rupu, kak da velim. I probal sam a i cital sam o tom fenomenu.

za mene je appelica bila pun pogodak.

Osnovno da ne bude jako skupa, a opet dovoljno kvalitetna. Prema tome uzeti neku serijsku lulu provjerene marke, jeftinije varijante

... ne da mi se prevoditi, ionako velika vecina dobro barata engleskim jezikom pa ne bi trebao biti problem...

dakle,

"So, you're thinkin' to buy a pipe, after having gone into the shop "just to have a look". How do you know if a pipe is going to be any good, or any good for you in particular?

Briar: We don't know where it came from. Period. So we have to hope it's been treated properly. Most of what you'll hear is total baloney. Every pipe shop in the world has a brandless bunch of basket pipes where the stummels were cut in WWII and recently found, or some such nonsense. For our purposes, briar is briar, and how old, how treated, where from, is all a mystery.

All we can do is look at the briar carefully and make sure it has no serious flaws. Deep pits, cracks or fissures, or spots that look kind of spongey? Pass it by. Fills are harder to detect, but in general, they are small spots of color that have no grain at all, and are usually a slightly different texture than the wood. A fill is no reason to reject a pipe on smoking grounds. I have pipes with multiple fills that smoke great. But if you are paying top dollar, and want a pipe that did not require cosmetic repair, then look really close for small off-color spots.

On a smooth pipe, look that it is sanded well and finished evenly. This is where corners are cut on production pipes. Have a look, for example, where the stem hits the bowl - it's tough to get that right. If it's all scratchy looking, or darker stained, then it didn't get the attention it deserved. That won't make the pipe smoke better, but it can be an indicator of how well taken care of a pipe was at the factory - did anyone care how it came out?

Rusticated pipes are usually chosen for rustication because they have some cosmetic issue - they aren't pretty under the texture. That does NOT make them worse smokers by any means, but you have to look closely at the rustication and make sure it isn't hiding a serious defect.

Inside the bowl may be coated. If it is, you can't see much. If it isn't, have a look at the wood, again making sure there aren't any serious defects (larger pits, or discolored areas). I would pass on a pipe if the stain bled through to the bowl from the outside.

That's about all you can tell on most pipes.

Grain itself means nothing in terms of how a pipe will smoke. Your straight grained beauties are just that - beauties.

I avoid heavily lacquered pipes because I've seen them blister and flake. But most finishes are fine, and I wouldn't pay a huge amount of attention to exactly what the pipe is coated with.



Mechanics: I spend a lot of time looking at how a pipe is set up. First, see that the airway hits the bottom of the bowl, more or less in the middle. I would accept a pipe if the airway is off to the side a bit, but not if it isn't in the bottom corner, so to speak. I also avoid pipes that have the airway meeting the bowl RIGHT at the bottom - they can plug up a bit.

Have a look at the shape of the tobacco chamber too. Some people don't like the more conical Danish style chambers. It depends on your packing technique and what kinds of tobacco you smoke, I think. It's not that one is better than another, but a 1" by 1" wide, flat bottom bowl requires a different pack than a 3" deep cone.


Opening the pipe up, feel how tight the joint is. If it's super tight, the shank could crack, or the tenon break. Super loose is no good either. A little loose and it will fix itself if you smoke the pipe a bunch.

Have a look at where the airway from the bowl ends inside the shank. In a straight or slighly bent pipe, the airway should be centered dead on inside the mortise where the tenon slides in. A really bent pipe will have the airway terminating in the side wall of the mortise, and it is critical that the tenon does not occlude this hole. You can take a quick measurement with anything; a pipe cleaner, a match.... just see that the tenon is not deeper than the airway hole.

Assuming the stummel is okay, have a look at the stem. It should be cleanly finished inside and out. It's worth looking at how well the button is cut, and the slot at the end of the stem. This part goes in your mouth, so if it's too fat, or sharp, or just weird in some way, you'll know it.

Make sure you like the material of the stem: Lucite lasts long and is maintenance free, but it's hard on teeth. Ebonite is nicer on the teeth and more durable than cheaper vulcanite, but you'll only see it on top end factory pipes and handmades. Most pipes have mass-produced stems that are not especially comfortable compared to a hand made. Try a pipe cleaner in the stem, from both directions. If it goes easily, that's good. If it gets stuck, or hits something, the stem is either too restricted or badly machined. Dump it!

Generally, the idea is that the smoke coming from the chamber does not have to jump through hoops to get to your mouth. The smoother the ride for the smoke, the nicer the pipe will be.

With the stem in the pipe, you can look at the joint between the stem and the shank of the stummel. No gap is good. Gap is bad. Now, you can certainly tweak that at home with a little sanding - it's not a dealbreaker, but a high quality pipe will have a high quality joint. These little details being done well is an indicator that someone, somewhere, cared how the pipe came out.

So if you have a pipe in hand, and you can see that air gets easily from the bowl to the button, and the briar isn't obviously junky, the pipe will most likely be fine. The little details being done right is indicative (we hope) that the pipe as a whole is "well made".

Hope this helps. I bought ten or so pipes knowing absolutely nothing about how they should go together, and got lucky on some, and unlucky on others."